![]() Serve hot with ice cream, or cold with whipped cream. Use the rest of the cranberries to decorate the top. In the bowl of your stand mixer blend together the rolled oats, brown sugar, brown rice flour, sea salt, butter and pecans until a crumble forms. Mix remaining ingredients well (use fingers to get butter into other ingredients) and sprinkle over the apples. Place the apples, cranberries, brown sugar, granulated sugar and lemon juice in a medium size bowl. ![]() Pull it out about 20 minutes before baking, while your oven is preheating. Its lovely too, studded with bits of red. How to make Apple Cranberry Crisp You can prep this dessert ahead of time and place it in the refrigerator. Place apple slices and 3/4 of the cranberries in the dish. This apple crisp recipe gets an extra boost of flavour from a handful of fresh cranberries and a touch of molasses. 1 Combine apples, cranberries and granulated sugar in a 2 quart casserole dish.2 In a separate bowl, combine oats, brown sugar, flour. green apples, peeled, cored, and sliced 1/2″ The smells of apples and cinnamon fill your house (an invisible but very wonderful Christmas decoration), when you open your oven to pull out this bowl of Christmas cheer, you fall in love with yourself in love with the whole world. my absolute favorite dessert this time of year has a festive wreath of fresh cranberries and crunchy top - the recipe’s in my Autumn Book I know many of you have made it, but I can’t rest in life until everyone has! ♥ So here we go, this recipe serves six (it’s easy to cut it down and make it for two or even for one, especially for one). PAM Original No-Stick Cooking Spray 6 large Granny Smith or other tart cooking apples, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices (6 large about 8 cups) 1/2.
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![]() It is illegal to resell or attempt to resell a recalled consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. It's been a frustrating three days troubleshooting this thing.WASHINGTON, D.C. I understand this won't help everyone here, but hopefully it will help someone. Water drains out, my water heater condensate tube would sit out of the water (and be able to drain condensate properly), my unit would kick back on and I'd have hot water again.Īnyways, the simple solution was to pull the condensate tube out an inch or two so that it would be above the drain pump activation line, and not be submerged. Throughout the day, my A/C would be on, and I imagine the condensation from the A/C raised enough water in the drain pump to activate it. Because my condensate line was sitting in the water, it wasn't able to drain properly which I believe caused my water heater to shut down as a safety precaution (similar to if the condensate line/trap was completely clogged). This was causing my water heater to kick on for a few minutes, but once the condensate began to occur, the tube was underneath the water level in my A/C drain pump but the water level was not high enough to activate the drain pump. The issue was that the tube had slipped too deep into the water pump reservoir. I have a small tube that runs directly from the unit into the water pump that my A/C unit also uses to expel excess water/condensation. I have an interior unit (RUC98) that randomly started going hot for 5-6 minutes, and then go ice cold. Posting this here as I found a solution to my problem, and it was an easy fix. ![]() Keep this unit as a spare, for the next time needed. After cleaning, the wheel should spin freely. Before cleaning, the wheel may not turn or may turn with a jerking motion. ![]() Before and after, test the action by rotating a small magnet around the turbine housing. You may need to ream the thrust bearing with a small drill bit. You may be able to clean the turbine and axle by vigorous brushing, but don't breathe the particles! These are magnetically attracted to the wheel. Usually the wheel and axle/bearing become fouled with a black powdery substance, likely micron-sized manganese dioxide or iron oxide particles. Save the old sensor assembly, and see if you can disassemble it to remove the turbine wheel from its housing. It may be a separate assembly or part of another assembly, such as a water control valve. A considerate heater manufacturer would install two flow sensors in series, so that the controller could warn about this impending failure. So a faulty flow sensor cannot trigger an alarm code. The heater requires minimum flow to operate the burner. In my experience, "no code, no hot water" has always been symptomatic of a faulty flow sensor. Is that normal?ĭoes anybody have any advice on what I can check next or what may be going on? I am at my wits end with this and want to get back to having an endless supply of hot water during showers or while doing dishes! Twice in the past 3 days I have opened up the Condensate trap drain plug, and maybe a cup or two of water has flushed out. I regularly flush this water heater, thus it is generally well maintained. I've checked to see what the outlet water temperature is, it is between 108 and 110 always. I've checked to see what the water flow is through the water heater, it is 26 when I have the shower on and 11 when I have the sink on. The display consistently and always displays "120". Then about 30 seconds to a minute later, the Rinnai water heater will fire up and start producing hot water again. Meanwhile I can still hear water running through the water heater. With the hot water at the kitchen sink and/or the shower turned on - if I am standing in front of my Rinnai water heater, I can see the water heater turn off and the In Use light go out. Sometime the cold water will last for 30 second, sometime it will last for a minute. This cycling happens randomly and for various amounts of time. Then all of a sudden while trying to run hot water in either of the showers or in the kitchen sink, the hot water would start cycling between cold and hot. It has been working flawlessly up until about 2 weeks ago. It was installed in my house back in 2009. I have a Rinnai tankless RC80HPi water heater. ![]() It's two pieces that split in the front, one moving up and the other dropping down, and though there's no detailing inside the cockpit itself, there's padding or something on the inside of the doors.Īnd yes, the set includes a pilot, Sarah Briggs. Funko actually understands what fans want, so MOB's cockpit opens up. The majorĬomplaint about the McFarlane Toys Titan was that, despite all the promises to the contrary, the cockpit did not open and the pilot did not fit inside. Yes, we already said that this figure doesn't move at all, but it does still have two hinges, and they make all the difference. Go figure.Īlso better on Funko's toy than on McFarlane's? The articulation. That's the same thing that's on McFarlane's BT, but the tampo is clearer here than it was there. The decoration on the chest is a Prowler, a large predator from the planet Leviathan. The glue used to stick the pieces together seems to have dusted over a little bit, so you may have to wipe "fog" off the toy when you get it. The cameras that act as its eyes are bright blue, really standing out against the base color of the mech and making it easy to understand the way it "sees": one big optical unit in the drum on the center, two on the right shoulder, and a final one in the ball on top of the left shoulder. In the game, but "MOB-1316" is printed on the right leg. The internal workings of the Titan are a silvery grey, while the outer shell is a brick red. There are heavy weapons pods on the shoulders, creating a brutish, powerful look, and the center of the back has three rocket boosters, since the "fall" in "Titanfall" is literal - they get dropped onto the battlefield from the sky. If it tips over (or to provide a stable base in case someone wants to use it for sniping), or the rungs on the left leg that would give a pilot an easier time climbing in. Look at the pads on the knees and elbows, to help protect the suit There are also lots of little bits that give the bot personality. All the joints look like they could really move, though none of them do. It's one thing to have a robot's arm just emerge from a blocky torso, it's entirely another to put a rotator cuff there with inset connectors and sculpt cartoony pistons and hinges. The suit does look like a fairly believable mech, thanks to the small details in its design. Maybe it's because they don't have heads or normal eyes? Seems reasonable. It's not just that they're robots, because it's not like the Transformers ones look this good. There's something about the Titanfall aesthetic that seems uniquely suited to translating to POP! form. Like the rest of the Titans, MOB is a goodie. But why wait, when you can get the POP! version now? MOB-1316 is the same model of Titan as BT-7274 (a Vanguard-Class), so don't be too surprised if McFarlane Toys decides to do a repaint of their hunk of ass. You'd think if any Titan was going to be on #TeamUterus, it'd be this one. Titanfall 2: Sarah and MOB-1316 Funko Pop! B u y t h e t o y s, n o t t h e h y p e. ![]() ![]() ![]() “At Acacium Group, our purpose is to improve people’s lives, and this includes for the brilliant people who work for us. 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